Daabacaada 3D waxay noqotay tignoolajiyada caadiga ah oo aad uga badan, iyadoo mashiinada daabacaadda laga heli karo qiyaastii meel kasta oo qiimo ah. Inta badan dadka doonaya daabacaadda 3D waxay u badan tahay inay heli karaan nooc ay awoodaan. Iyadoo taasi jirto, daabacaadda 3D ayaa weli ah mid cusub oo dad yar ay yaqaaniin sida ay u shaqeyso. 

Tani waa sababta ay hadda ugu fiican tahay in laga jawaabo su'aasha " Sidee^(How) u shaqeysaa daabacaadda 3D?". Waxaa jirta fursad aad u wanaagsan oo aad u baahan doonto inaad isticmaasho mid ugu dambeyntii!

Wax-qabad vs Daabacaadda 3D kala-goynta^{(Additive vs Subtractive 3D Printing)}

Waxaa jira laba qaybood oo ballaaran oo daabacaadda 3D ah. Madbacadaha 3D ee aad adigu iibsan karto waa ku dhawaad ​​dhammaan mashiinnada "wax-ku-darka". Si kale haddii loo dhigo, waxay dhisaan walxaha 3D iyaga oo ku daraya walxo (badanaa lakabyo) ilaa shaygu ka dhammeeyo. Daabacadaha 3D dadku waxay ka fikiraan marka ay maqlaan "daabacaha 3D" had iyo jeer waa noocyada kala duwan ee wax lagu daro.

Daabacaadda 3D ee aan kala goyn waa mid aad u kala duwan. Halkan waxaad ku bilaabaysaa qadar go'an oo walxo ah ka dibna ka saar walxaha ilaa kaliya shayga la dhammeeyey ayaa ka hadhay. Farsameeyaha oo taallo marmar ka samaysanaya ayaa isticmaalaya hab kala-goyn ah. Mashiinnada kala-goynta ayaa inta badan laga helaa aqoon-is-weydaarsiyada waaweyn iyo goobaha warshadaha. Nidaamyada wax-shiidka ee CNC^(CNC) (kontoroolka tirada kombuyuutarka) waxay u badan tahay inay yihiin tusaalaha ugu caansan.

Waxa kaliya oo aan diirada saari doonaa mashiinada wax lagu daro halkan iyo dibadda, maadaama ay khuseeyaan celceliska macaamilka. Kaliya ogow in mashiinnada kala-goynta ay ka tirsan yihiin isla qoyska ballaaran ee daabacadaha 3D sida kuwa aad miiska saari karto.

Qaabaynta Dhigista Fudud, Stereolithography iyo Xulashada Laser Sintering^{(Fused Deposition Modelling, Stereolithography and Selective Laser Sintering)}

Saddexda hab ee ugu muhiimsan ee daabacaadda 3D ee wax-ku-oolka ah waa FDM (qaabaynta kaydinta isku-dhafka ah), stereolithography ( SLA ) iyo xulashada laser sintering ( SLS ).

Da Vinci FDM Printer^{(The da Vinci FDM Printer)(The da Vinci FDM Printer)}

FDM waa nidaamka heerka macaamiisha ugu caansan. Noocyada noocaan ah ee madbacadaha fiilada walxaha ayaa la dhex maraa madaxa daabacaadda kulul. Madaxa daabacaadda ayaa si sax ah loogu meeleeyay 3D-space wuxuuna kaydiyaa lakabka walxaha sida waafaqsan tilmaamaha saxda ah ee la qorsheeyay. Waxaa jira habab kala duwan oo loo maro FDM , laakiin waxaan ku gaari doonaa taas daqiiqad gudaheed.

Daabacaha Nobel ee SLA^{(The Nobel SLA Printer) (The Nobel SLA Printer )}

Stereolithography aad ayuu ugu yar yahay nidaamyada macaamiisha. Madbacadahani waxay isticmaalaan laysarka si ay ugu daaweeyaan resin dareere ah walxo caag adag ah. Sida caadiga ah, shayga "waxaa laga soo jiidaa" tamash of resin, samaynta lakab by lakabka marka uu ka soo kaco alaabta. Sannadihii u dambeeyay madbacadaha SLA waxay noqdeen kuwo is haysta oo la awoodi karo. Markaa waa beddelka dhabta ah ee daabacayaasha FDM , iyadoo ku xidhan nooca ugu dambeeya ee aad dejiso.

Xulashada^(Selective) laser-ka-doorashada ( SLS ) waxay isticmaashaa layser awood leh si ay ugu darto budada polymerka. Budada dhabta ahi waxay u shaqaysaa sidii qaab-dhismeedka taageerada daabacaadda, markaa nooca daabacaadda uma baahna xoqin gaar ah. SLS maaha nooc FDM ah oo aad ka heli doonto miiska. Wali waa tignoolajiyada warshadaha hadda.

Kartiyaanka & Delta Robot Printer^{(Cartesian & Delta Robot Printers)}

A Delta Robot Printer

Nooca ugu caansan ee daabacaha FDM waa daabacaha 3D ee karteesiga ah. Magaca waxaa loola jeedaa isku-duwayaasha Kartisia. Taasi waa isku- dubaridyada XYZ^(XYZ) ee aan dhammaanteen ku baranay dugsiga. Madaxa daabacaadda waxaa loo wareejin karaa iskudubbarid kasta oo XYZ ah oo ku dhex jira booska mugga daabacan. Xisaabtu waa sahlan tahay, madbacadaha waa kuwo la awoodi karo oo tayada daabacadu waa sax. 

Si kastaba ha ahaatee, iyada oo ku xidhan sida ay u kala duwan yihiin isku-duwayaasha XYZ, sagxadaha qaloocan ayaa laga yaabaa inaanay u siman sida ay noqon karaan, oo u baahan qaar ka mid ah shaqada dhamaystirka gacanta.

Daabacadaha robotka Delta^(Delta) waxay qaataan hab ka duwan. Madaxa daabacaadda ayaa lagu rakibay saddex gacmood oo ku socda saddex bir. Marka la beddelo dhererka cudud kasta, madaxa daabacadu wuu luli karaa. Naqshadeyntani waxay u oggolaaneysaa madaxa daabacaadda inuu ku lulan karo qalooca dhabta ah wuxuuna sidoo kale u oggolaanayaa in walxaha dhaadheer lagu daabaco gudaha mugga daabacaadda.

Asal ahaan, tareenada dhaadheer ayaa dheer, dhererka qaabka ayaa noqon kara. Halkii ay ka ahaan lahaayeen isku-duwayaasha XYZ, madbacadaha robotka delta waxay isticmaalaan trigonometry si ay u xisaabiyaan booska madaxa daabacan. Natiijada kama dambaysta ah ayaa ah in aysan gaari karin xallin daabacaad la mid ah tan daabacayaasha karteesiga.

Si aad runtii u fahamto fikradda robot delta, waxaad u baahan tahay inaad ku aragto ficil ahaan. Bal u fiirso muuqaalkan uu qoray Johann Rocholl oo waxaad si degdeg ah u heli doontaa fikradda.

U fiirso^(Notice) dhawaaqa gacmaha iyo sida xorta ah iyo sida fudud ee madaxa daabacadu u dhaqaaqi karo.

Qalabka daabacaha 3D^{(3D Printer Materials)}

Daabacadaha 3D waxay isticmaalaan agabyo kala duwan, laakiin waxaa jira laba balaastiig ah oo ilaa hadda ugu badan codsiyada heerka macaamiisha: ABS iyo PLA .

ABS ( Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene ) waa isla caag la mid ah tan lebenka LEGO laga sameeyay. Balaastigani waxa ay u nugushahay in ay dagdagto marka ay qaboojinayso waxana ay u baahantahay daabace leh sariir daabacan oo kulul. Aad ayay u adkaysanaysaa saamayntu, laakiin si gaar ah uma xoog badna. Waxay ku habboon tahay samaynta qaybaha prototype iyo xitaa qaybaha ugu dambeeya ee aan culeyska qaadin.

PLA ( Polylactic Acid ) waxay leedahay meel dhalaalaysa oo hooseeya, ma rogto wax badan, way fududahay in lagu shaqeeyo oo ay leedahay daabacado guuldarraystay. Sidoo kale aad bay u jajaban tahay isticmaal kasta oo la taaban karo, laakiin waxay u fiican tahay abuurista moodallo siman oo faahfaahsan oo loogu talagalay in la eego oo keliya.

Akhbaarta wanaagsan ayaa ah in macaamiisha 3D daabacayaasha intooda badan ay ku shaqeyn doonaan labadaba qalabkan qaaliga ah. Markaa waxaad u bedeli kartaa sida baahiyahaagu u baahan yihiin.

Filka Nylon^(Nylon) waa ikhtiyaar kale oo xitaa waxaa jira daabacayaal u isticmaala alwaax ama bir sida walxo ahaan. Daabacadaha jiilka xiga waxay sidoo kale xamili karaan in ka badan hal fiil markiiba, taas oo u oggolaanaysa daabacado isku dhafan ama midabyo badan.

Habka Daabacaadda 3D ee Caadiga ah^{(The Typical 3D Printing Process)}

Haddi aanad waligaa samayn daabacaadda 3D laftaadu, waxa ay u badantahay in aad wax ka waydiiso sida ay dhab ahaantii u shaqeyso marka laga eego dhinaca isticmaalaha. Markaad isticmaalayso daabacaha 3D uma fududa sida garaacista daabacaadaha 2D ee leysarka ama daabacaadda qalin-jabinta, uma dhowa sida adag sida aad u malaynayso.

Ka dib markaad dejiso daabacaha sida ku cad buug-gacmeedka, oo leh hagaajin iyo sinnaan si sax ah loo sameeyay, marka hore waxaad u baahan tahay nooc si aad u daabacdo.

Waxaad samayn kartaa qaabkaaga, adoo isticmaalaya shay sida Zbrush ama AutoCAD^{( Zbrush or AutoCAD)} , laakiin dadka intooda badan waxay u badan tahay inay soo dejiyaan nooc ka mid ah bogga internetka. Joogsiga ugu horreeya waa inuu ahaadaa Thingiverse , taas oo ah suurtogalnimada ugu caansan ee ururinta moodooyinka isticmaala-gudbiyey. Si kastaba ha ahaatee, waxaa jira siyaabo badan oo kale^{(alternatives)} .

Ka dib markaad hesho moodal qaab ku habboon, waxaad ku furi doontaa software-ka la socda daabacahaaga. Dhammaantood waxay u muuqdaan oo u shaqeeyaan si kala duwan, laakiin fikradda aasaasiga ah waa isku mid. Waxa kale oo laga yaabaa inaad rabto inaad marka hore ku daaweyso qaabka 3D Meshmixer , kaas oo hubinaya in qaabka 3D uu yahay mid adag oo ku habboon daabacaadda.

Software-ka daabacaha 3D, waxaad ka qaadan doontaa cabbirka iyo tayada moodeelka oo software-ku wuxuu u beddeli doonaa "jeexyo" oo matalaya lakab kasta oo daabacan. Waxa kale oo ay xisaabin doontaa "scaffolding" ee ay tahay in la daabaco si loo taageero moodeelka marka la samaynayo. Waxyaabahan waa la jebin karaa marka daabacaadda la sameeyo.

Iyada oo dhammaan shaqada diyaarinta ah ee kaa dambeeya, daabacadu way bilaaban kartaa. Iyada oo ku xidhan goobaha tayada, waxa laga yaabaa inaad ku jirto sugitaan dheer! Daabacaad tayo sare leh waxay ku kala duwan tahay dhowr saacadood ilaa dhowr maalmood. Mahadsanid^(Thankfully) , qaar ka mid ah daabacayaasha 3D ayaa kuu oggolaanaya inaad si fog ula socoto horumarka daabacaada adigoo isticmaalaya app.

Marka daabacaada la dhammeeyo, waxaad ka saaraysaa sariirta ka dibna waxaad ka jebin doontaa iyada oo aan xoqin. Xaalado badan waa inaad ku dhammaysataa moodalka adigoo isticmaalaya warqad ciid ah iyo qalab goyn gaar ah si meesha looga saaro cilladaha. Dadka qaar xitaa waxay rinjiyeeyaan moodooyinkooda! Xadka kaliya ee dhabta ah waa hal-abuurkaaga.

Haddii aad cuncunayso inaad iibsato daabacaha 3D, kuwani waa xulashooyinkayada ugu fiican^{(best picks)} iyo haddii aad miisaaniyad ku jirto, kuwani waa xulashooyin saaxiibtinimo oo jeebka ah.

HDG Explains : How Does 3D Printing Work?

3D printing has become a much more mаinstream technologу, with printing machinеs available at just about eνery priсe point. Most people who want a 3D printеr can probably find a model they can afford. Desрite this, 3D printіng is still so new that few people know how it works. 

This is why now is a good time to answer the question “How does 3D printing work?”. There’s a very good chance you’ll have to use one eventually!

Additive vs Subtractive 3D Printing

There are two broad categories of 3D printing. The 3D printers that you can buy yourself are almost all “additive” machines. In other words, they build 3D objects by adding material (usually in layers) until the object is complete. The 3D printers people think of when they hear “3D printer” is almost always of the additive variety.

Subtractive 3D printing is very different. Here you start with a fixed amount of material and then remove material until only the finished object is left. A sculptor making a statue out of marble is using a subtractive method. Subtractive machines are usually found in large workshops and industrial settings. CNC milling (computer numerical control) systems are probably the best-known example.

We’ll only be concentrating on additive machines from here on out, since they’re relevant to the average consumer. Just know that subtractive machines belong to the same extended family of 3D printers as the one you might put on a desk.

Fused Deposition Modelling, Stereolithography and Selective Laser Sintering

The three main methods of additive 3D printing are FDM (fused deposition modelling), stereolithography (SLA) and selective laser sintering (SLS).

The da Vinci FDM Printer

FDM is the most common consumer-grade system. With these types of printers a filament of material is passed through a hot print head. The print head is precisely positioned in 3D-space and deposits a layer of material according to exact programmed instructions. There are different approaches to FDM, but we’ll get to that in a moment.

The Nobel SLA Printer 

Stereolithography is much less common in consumer systems. These printers use lasers to cure a liquid resin into a solid plastic material. Usually, the object is “pulled” from a vat of resin, forming layer by layer as it rises from the material. In recent years SLA printers have become more compact and affordable. So it’s a real alternative to FDM printers, depending on what type of final model you settle on.

Selective laser sintering (SLS) uses a powerful laser to fuse a polymer powder. The actual powder acts as a support structure for the print, so this type of printing doesn’t need special scaffolding. SLS is not a type of FDM you’ll find on the desktop. It’s still an industrial technology for now.

Cartesian & Delta Robot Printers

A Delta Robot Printer

The most common type of FDM printer is the cartesian 3D printer. The name refers to cartesian coordinates. That’s the XYZ coordinates we all learned in school. The print head can be moved to any XYZ coordinate within the print volume space. The math is simple, the printers are pretty affordable and print quality is precise. 

However, depending on how granular the XYZ coordinates are, curved surfaces might not be as smooth as they could be, requiring some manual finishing work.

Delta robot printers take a different approach. The print head is mounted to three arms that run on three rails. By varying the height of each arm, the print head can swing. This design allows for the print head to swing in true curves and also allows for tall objects to be printed within the print volume.

Basically, the longer the rails are, the taller the model can be. Rather than XYZ coordinates, delta robot printers use trigonometry to calculate print head position. The end result is that they can’t reach quite the same print resolution as cartesian printers.

To really understand the delta robot concept, you need to see it in action. Have a look at this video by Johann Rocholl and you’ll quickly get the concept.

Notice the articulation on the arms and how freely and smoothly the print head can move.

3D Printer Materials

3D printers use a variety of materials, but there are two plastics that are by far the most common in consumer-grade applications: ABS and PLA.

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is exactly the same plastic that LEGO bricks are made of. This plastic is susceptible to warping when cooling down and needs a printer with a heated print bed. It’s quite impact resistant, but not particularly strong. It’s suitable for making prototype parts and even final parts that aren’t load-bearing.

PLA (Polylactic Acid) has a low melting point, doesn’t warp much, is easy to work with and has fewer failed prints. It’s also far too brittle for any practical use, but it is brilliant for creating smooth, detailed models that are only meant to be looked at.

The good news is that most consumer 3D printers will work with both of these inexpensive materials. So you can change them out as your needs require.

Nylon filament is another option and there are even printers that use wood or metal as a material. Next-generation printers can also handle more than one filament at a time, allowing for mixed material or multi-color prints.

The Typical 3D Printing Process

If you’ve never made a 3D print yourself, you’re probably curious about how it actually works from a user perspective. While using a 3D printer isn’t as easy as knocking out 2D prints on a laser or inkjet printer, it’s not nearly as difficult as you might think.

After setting up the printer according to the manual, with calibration and levelling done correctly, you first need a model to print.

You can make your own model, using something like Zbrush or AutoCAD, but most people are likely to download a model from an online site. The first stop should definitely be Thingiverse, which is quite possibly the most famous collection of user-submitted models. However, there are many alternatives.

After getting a model in a compatible format, you’ll open it up in the software that came with your printer. They all look and work differently, but the basic concept is the same. You may also want to first treat a 3D model with Meshmixer, which ensures that a 3D model is solid and suitable for printing.

In the 3D printer software, you’ll pick the size and quality of the model and the software will convert it into “slices” representing each print layer. It will also calculate the “scaffolding” that has to be printed to support the model while it’s being made. This stuff can be broken off when the print is done.

With all that prep work behind you, the print can begin. Depending on the quality settings, you might be in for a long wait! High quality prints vary from a few hours to a few days. Thankfully, some 3D printers let you monitor the progress of your print remotely via an app.

Once the print is done, you’ll remove it from the bed and then break it free of the scaffolding. In many cases you’ll have to finish the model using sandpaper and special cutting tools to remove imperfections. Some people even paint their models! The only real limit is your creativity.

If you’re itching to buy a 3D printer, these are our best picks and if you’re on a budget, these are more pocket friendly options.

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